Over the past several weeks, I have been moving forward with progress on the Elevator.  The spar and rib replacements arrived, but I had plenty of work in the interim getting all of the parts prepped, and primed.  I switched to PPG primer, and I am really happy with the application, and covering.  I still have some of the duplicolor that I will use as I need to.

With the new spar, I had to reassemble the elevator and drill the rib, skin, hinge reinforcement, and root and end rib holes to match the parts that had already been drilled.  This process took a while, repeating a lot of work already done.  Priming the redone parts got me back to the point where both elevators were back in sync, and I could work on both of them in tandem.

It has been quite a while since I have done any back riveting on this project, and I forgot how easy it is to get a real nice shop head.  The rib halves are back riveted to the skins.   You have to be careful and make sure everything gets put in the right spot.  Since all the rib flanges must face outward on the elevators, you wind up putting one type of rib on the left bottom skin, and a different type of rib on the right bottom skin.  Follow the plans, check twice... no problem.

One of my other problems was the dilemma of the #6 dimple.  I got a new set of spring back dies, with the correct #6 die, and they worked without issues.  The trim access plate looks great now.  I got an e-mail from Isham, and they would like to make sure I have the correct dies.  Even though I didn't buy from them.  Great customer service.

A while back, when I ordered some tools from Avery Tools, I went ahead and ordered a special bucking bar for the RV-10.  The plans specify the design of the bucking bar that is used to rivet the rear spar of the elevators where access is difficult due to the trailing edge.  The bar is well designed, and allows you to do a beautiful job bucking those rivets.

With the rear spar riveted in place between the skins (leaving the skins loose where the trim tab hinge will be fitted later), you start the process of joining the rib halves with pop rivets, then pop rivet the front spar in place.  There are a LOT of pop rivets to be pulled during this process, which I did over the course of about 2 hours.  After all the pop riveting, my hands and wrists were sore for the rest of the day.

When riveting the forward spar to the skins, you leave the last few rivets on either end undone so that you can peel back the skin and reach in to rivet the root and end rib assemblies in place.  On one side (Bottom, Root), I got carried away and riveted the skin in place near the root of the rib.  Thankfully, you only need access to rivet the elevator gusset in place, and I was able to reach it from the top skin.  I am still working on riveting the root ribs in place, then I will move on to finishing the elevators with the end rib/counterbalance assembly.

The elevators will be finished soon, then on to the tailcone.  I need to decide on the next kit and get it ordered.

The assembly of the elevator went pretty good.  Same standard procedure as for all of the other assemblies... Debur, assemble, drill, disassemble.... spend an eternity deburring and dimpling before priming and start re-assembling.  I am currently in the incredibly long, unexciting portion where both sides of every hole needs to get the burr knocked off, and all the parts prepped the way you want them to live in your airplane.  For me, that means making sure that there are no obvious burrs on the edges, or any of the holes.  I take this time as an opportunity to make sure any corners are properly radiused, and edges are smoothed.

I have grown to like the spray can duplicolor brand self etching primer.  It covers really well, stays on pretty good, and isn't near as much a pain as the 2 part Sherwin-Williams wash primer.

My dad came over a week ago last Friday to help with the parts prep.  We spent several hours deburring and dimpling.  One of the elevator ribs got an extra dimple, and will be replaced.  While I was busier talking than paying attention, I countersunk one of the front spars.  The spar is .032" thick, and is the very minimum for countersinking.  First, this spar was not supposed to be countersunk, second I overdid it.  New spar on order.

That screwup was a little demoralizing, especially with the monotony of deburring the skins.  I have taken small chunks of time to work on the rest of the deburring while I wait on my replacement parts.

Repeating an earlier screw up, I got an extra hole in one of the skins with the pneumatic squeezer.  Continuing my streak of good luck, there is enough edge distance that I do not need to replace the skin. 

Not too much to take pictures of, so next post will have more visual appeal.

As a side note, I have been doing a lot of thought on the next kit order.  I can order the wing, or fuselage kit.  If I order the fuselage kit, I will have to add a wing spar center section in addition, then delete it from the wing kit when I order it.  This has a lot of appeal to get going on the fuselage as a next step.  This would leave the option of quick build wings later, avoiding tank construction.

Another consideration on the budgeting is my desire to have something to fly this spring.  I may elect to slow the build rate a little in order to get in the air.  As the new year rolls around, I will start to get clarity on how I want to approach the next phase of the build, and when I will need to have the next kit here.

With the Horizontal Stabilizer completed, I cleaned up the shop, and took part of the tables for the long stabilizer down.  The shop had gotten pretty messy over the course of building the horizontal stabilizer, with the long table taking up most of the shop, it was difficult to get access to some areas to sweep, etc.  I still need to find a suitable place to store the HS.  Right now it is in the shop storage, but I worry about damage, and efficient use of space.  I am thinking I will build a shelf to keep it in the garage, If I am very careful I may be able to get it into my office to hang on a wall there.

During some downtime on the HS, I had begun preparing the E-1008A/B Rib half's, so I dove right into deburring those, drilling, and prepping the E-1022 Shear clips.  After that I got to do my first real session of fluting on the Elevator tip ribs.  I used a metal straight edge as my guide, and found the whole fluting process to be pretty easy.

Next the elevator skins were prepped by removing the blue plastic where needed, and bending the close out tabs where the trailing edge of the elevator transitions to the trim tabs.

The Fore and aft spars were prepped, drilling hinge reinforcement plates where needed before proceeding to assemble the bottom skins, ribs, and fore and aft spars.  Once the bottom skin is attached the trim access reinforcement plate is clecod in place and drilled to the skin.  With the reinforcement plate in place, the top skins can be attached and clecod into place.

With the skeleton assembled the close out tabs are match drilled, and the elevator horns are match drilled.  I started match drilling the skins by starting in the middle of the fore and aft spars, clecoing every whole as I worked my way to the ends.  Both fore and aft spars were drilled completely before I moved on to drilling the ribs to the skin.  Repeat for Left and right, top and bottom.   A whole lot of drilling, and a whole lot of clecos.

The empennage kit comes with two WD-415 brackets which are basically a nut welded to a small piece of steal plate.  This bracket is to be attached to the cover plates to act as the anchor for the trim cable.  The plans are not very specific on measurements to attach these to the plate, but I did my best and drilled the plates to the trim access.  Next, I started running into a little trouble.  The plans on page 9-7 Step 5 say to dimple the cover plate and reinforcement plate for the K1100-06 nutplates and AN507-6R6 screws.  My problem was that it did not say if the access plate should be drilled, and my dimple dies did not fit in the pre-punched hole.  I had already put a ding in one of the access plates, while I was deburring, so I decided to go ahead and try and dimple it anyway.  Well, as I should have known, it cracked.  I drilled another one of the holes out, which resulted in a better dimple with the #6 die, but it seems pretty deep for the screw. 

I called Van's builder support, and they said to dimple with a 1/8" die, and see if it was a little better.   I plan to experiment with the botched plate, to determine the best fitting technique.  I ordered two cover plates, and some pro seal for the foam ribs, and trailing edges that are coming up.  I also ordered from Rivethead Aero a set of CNC machined replacements for the WD-415 brackets.

I like these a lot better, I believe the ones available from Cleaveland tool, are the same.  I will have to hold off on completing 9-7 Step 5 and 6 until the parts arrive.  I will procede with Step 7, and begin disassembling both left and right rudder assemblies.

Throughout last week I got the Hstab back in the skins and clecod together.  This time I had more than enough clecos to secure every other hole.  I also got a decent start on riveting the skins on before Friday when my dad came over to help.  We worked for 3 hours on Friday night while Erica was at work.  We were able to complete one side of the stabilizer, and got most of the other side done.  The main benefit was that we were able to complete the second side up to the stringers.

The way the stabilizer is put together, there is a stringer between the front and back spars.  This stringer spans 3 or 4 of the ribs, and makes it difficult when reaching in to buck the rivets forward of the stringers.  For starters, the clearance is tight enough that it is tough to get your hand past the stringers with a bucking bar in your hand.  Once you get it in there, you want to leave it until you are done bucking those rivets.  The second part is that it is difficult to buck the rivets on the forward section of the stringer, since you can't see them.  I purchased a small inspection mirror so that I could get a better look at these rivets and make sure they were driven properly.  Turns out that there were 2 rivets that were way under driven, so I got them cleaned up.

I spent part of the days Saturday and Sunday cleaning up and getting the rear spar riveted in place.  There were some rivets that were difficult to access on the end ribs, so I turned the whole assembly on it's side (actually rite side up as it flies), and got those rivets taken care of.

I was driving the last rivet on the horizontal stab and paying to much attention to the shop head when I got the rivet gun out of alignment.  It sheared the rivet head clean off of the rest of the rivet.  A pin punch was difficult to get into the tight spot, and wouldn't budge the rivet.  I took my angle drill and a 3/32" low clearance bit and drilled the center of the 1/8" rivet.  I was really pleased to drill through this thick section, and not elongate the whole.  It went right through the middle of the rivet.  The pin punch didn't do any more good, so I put the 1/8" short bit on, and started to drill the rest of the way.  I was very pleased that the twisting motion helped the rivet come out cleanly without having to be drilled all the way.  There was a nice little 3/32" hole right through the middle.  I couldn't do it that perfectly again if I tried.  Small Victories.

I drove the final rivet, and declared the Horizontal Stab... Complete.

This will be a long post as I haven't done an update in a long time.  When I left off I was working on the Horizontal stabilizer spars.  I built the cradles for the skins, and realized that I made them way too tall.

once I got the front spar parts all match drilled, I primed them and started the process of riveting the doubler, spar caps, and attach brackets in place.  I botched up one of the rivets on the attach bracket.  I will have to fix that later.

With both spars riveted, I started the assembly of the whole stabilizer.  Like on the vertical stabilizer, the nose ribs are difficult to get in place, but I think these will go a lot better.  I really didn't have all the clecos I needed to get the skins in place and as tight as I would like it.  

In order toget good alignment to do the final drilling, I wound up moving a LOT of the clecos around, and getting a sore hand in the process.  My pore little compressor can barely keep up during the drilling process, so moving clecos around didn't really cost me a lot of time.  I have since acquired 200 more 3/32" clecos.

After the process of drilling the skins, I disassembled the stabilizer and started the long process of deburring all of the parts, then countersinking and dimpling the skins.  This is an incredibly long, and tedious process.  I worked on it a little every night.  I had to get some help dimpling the skins as they were really too long to support one end, while the other end was in the C-Frame.

I have all but given up on using the Sherwin-Williams primer.  I have not had any luck shooting that primer, but the self etching rattle can primer goes on and covers very well.  I primed all of the parts, and the skins where they mate with the skeleton.

Here you can see the center section of the stab cleco'd together before I start riveting.

Completed center section.

Next all but the two most outboard inspar ribs were assembled to the front spar, and riveted in place. 

Before calling it a night, I set the cradles back up and clecod the nose ribs in place.  Next I will rivet these to the skin, then start assembling the complete assembly.

I am still here, and still building.

I am making steady progress on the Horizontal Stab.  Work has kept me out of town, and the leaves keep piling up.

I have the Horizontal Stab parts primed, and one of the skins dimpled.  One more skin to dimple, then I can start final assembly.

Progress has been pretty slow on the airplane.  I am sticking to the "do something every day" mentality.  Currently, I have primer drying on the components of the HS forward spar.  I can begin assembling and riveting those parts as a next step.

While we were on vacation I had a piece of angle shipped to re-do the front attach brackets on the Horizontal spar.  They turned out very well this time, using the correct hole sizes.

I have 4 pieces of 3/4" MDF Cut out and ready to start building the cradles for assembly of the Horizontal Spar.  I am headed to Las Vegas tomorrow for an Industry conference, returning late Thursday, then turning around and heading to South Carolina the next week for a project.

I haven't been very good at updating here.  Work has been very busy, and my wife has had a bout with Kidney Stones.  I have managed to get some time in here and there.

My Father in Law came over to help me with the rudder assembly.  I had prepped by using Tim Olson's procedure using Steel angle iron as a back plate.  I drilled the angle and used it to hold the trailing edge straight while we glued the trailing edge together.  This is a pretty busy session as you need to proseal half of the trailing edge, then assemble the stiffeners to the shear clips.  It takes lots of hands and having some help is a plus.

With all that done the rudder spar goes on the assembly and gets riveted in place.  Most of the rivets can be squeezed, but there are a couple that need to be bucked, and it is pretty tight to get your hand to them.

I am holding out on finishing the attachment of the counterweight until I get a torque wrench to properly seat them.

While I was working on wrapping up the rudder, I got to work prepping parts for the Horizontal Stabilizer.  I got both spars and spent a lot of time getting them all deburred.  These spars are about 11 feet long, so I built a couple table tops to put on sawhorses (1 2'x8', 2 2'x4') so that I can have options to reconfigure the work table.

The rear spar is pretty straightforward, there are some hinge brackets and doubler that get riveted in place.  I got everything drilled, and primed and my dad came over to work with me.  This was his first time to work with me on the plane, and we had a good time.  We got all the rear spar riveted together including the inner bearing/bracket.  We got a start on the attach brackets, but then called it a night.

The next step was to complete the fabrication of the attach brackets.  These are cut out of a large piece of aluminum angle.  Not having a belt sander, I rough cut the pieces then used a vixen file to bring them to final dimensions.  The second bracket I made turned out a lot better than the second.

Next there were six pieces of aluminum angle for stringers and caps that needed to be cut to a taper and deburred.  I bypassed the bandsaw and used the aviation snips, getting a forearm workout on the thick metal in the process.

The HS-1013 spar cap gets marked and clamped into place, drilled to the web, deburred, re-attached, drilled to the flange. etc.  This takes quite a while with all of the hole deburring, drilling and waiting on my wimpy little compressor.

I completed the drilling of the spar caps, and temporarily fastened the spar doubler.  This was when I started to realize that I had made a mistake earlier in the day.  After the doubler is attached the attach brackets I finished earlier in the day are fitted to the doubler and spar assembly.  Looking closer, I had mistakenly swapped the size of the holes on the attach brackets.  The means that the 1 hole needed to locate the bracket to the doubler was over sized, and I get to make a new pair of brackets.

I will order the part from Van's on Monday, and work on it when I get back from Vacation in a couple of weeks.

I got on a mission to complete the vertical stabilizer last night since it was so close.  I made a lot of noise at first finishing up what riveting had to be done with the rivet gun.  All of the riveting to the rear spar could be done with the squeezer except for a handful that were too close to hinge brackets.

This part is done!